Foodie Goes Vegan for Mexican Food Review

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    NEWSLETTERS

    The inside of Gracias Madre, the organic vegan Mexican restaurant.

    We kick off today's review fiesta at Gracias Madre, where Jonathan Kauffman enjoys cashew "cheese" and other artful vegan creations after getting over his hangups about the taqueria's parent restaurant, Cafe Gratitude.

    Admitting that he fell for the original raw-food spot's schtik years ago, you can almost hear The Kauff exhale as he notes, "the dishes [at Gracias Madre] have straightforward names, and the waiters, all lovely, practice without preaching."

    The Kauff goes on to call out some menu poseurs: a watery chile relleno denied its due time in the deep fryer and a tamal that "needed some Crisco whipped into the masa to lighten and moisten it up," before relishing an "excellent" vegan posole and a tostada that "you'd imagine was dreamed up by Moosewood Cookbook-toting hippies wintering on the Oaxacan coast."

    The Kauff summarizes, "I wouldn't call myself a lover, but I get the Madre love."