Admitting that he fell for the original raw-food spot's schtik years ago, you can almost hear The Kauff exhale as he notes, "the dishes [at Gracias Madre] have straightforward names, and the waiters, all lovely, practice without preaching."
The Kauff goes on to call out some menu poseurs: a watery chile relleno denied its due time in the deep fryer and a tamal that "needed some Crisco whipped into the masa to lighten and moisten it up," before relishing an "excellent" vegan posole and a tostada that "you'd imagine was dreamed up by Moosewood Cookbook-toting hippies wintering on the Oaxacan coast."
The Kauff summarizes, "I wouldn't call myself a lover, but I get the Madre love."
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