For the first time in memory, there's no Chronicle food section today, but since The Big Bad Bauer still has the loudest voice on the critics' circuit, we'll start this week's review recap with his Sunday piece on Marzano, Oakland's new trattoria:
With this restaurant, and places such as Beretta in San Francisco, we may end up getting back to the great moderately priced restaurants that have made this such a grand dining area ... For being so new, Marzano has the feel of a mature restaurant, and flavors resonate from start to finish. With [owners John] Hurley and [Justin] Hafen at the front door, it has a vibe that's as embracing as you'll find at the beloved family-owned trattorias in Italy.
With nothing on the menu over $15, Marzano hits all the right notes for times like these, and the 48-seat neighborhood gem gets the 2.5-star treatment from MB. [Chron]
In his review of Green Chile Kitchen, Paul Reidinger makes some heavy declarations: "In fact, the restaurant serves a host of memorable dishes (some with green chiles, many others without) and, because it's in the middle of NoPa rather than at, or just past, the edge of it, Green Chile could be the best restaurant in NoPa ... Green Chile Kitchen, by serving distinctive, carefully made food in an attractive setting at a moderate cost, manages to appeal simultaneously to the price-conscious, setting-conscious, and quality-conscious constituencies." [SFBG]
Meredith Brody sees what all the fuss is about at Mission Street Food. Her piece is not so much a review of the "restaurant" so much as it is a recap of the phenomenon, from mastermind Anthony Myint's background to the antojitos truck experiment to the current incarnation at Lung Shan: "The idea that good food can also do some good seems not only delicious, but also timely." [SFW]
THE ELSEWHERE: Tracie Broom finds brunch disappointment at Murray Circle, The EBX is at Hayward's Pot Pie Paradise, The Bunrabs tried out the annual Bollito Misto at Poggio, SFist stops by Hayes Valley Italian joint Il Borgo, and No Salad heads up to Kellerville for dinner at Ad Hoc.