Unsurprisingly, it's not just young chefs who vie for a precious mention of the French Laundry on their resume; suppliers will do anything to get their product on the menu too. There's the guy who drove a pig from Washington, the Spanish guy who tried to shill his caviar for months to no avail, and the now-famous butter maven Diane St. Clair, among others: "Gaining admission to the French Laundry kitchen is the food equivalent of joining an exclusive club. Purveyors must attract the attention of French Laundry chefs, then survive intense hazing: questions about the taste and consistency of their product and the philosophy behind it." [CCT]
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