Kim Severson pens a profile on the local rise, fall and rebirth of Bill Niman. The famous meat man started the Niman Ranch brand in the 70s to the delight of Chez Panisse (among others), but left last year after disagreements "over money and animal protocols." Now, he's back in the game with a new venture in Bolinas, where goats are the centerpiece of the comeback. His goats have already won chefs over at Eccolo and NY's Blue Hill; let the Great Goat Trendwatching commence. [NYT]
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