The Chronicle's Thursday Datebook is sadly sans critic Michael Bauer this week, but in his stead, Carey Sweet files on San Anselmo's Dream Farm. In its previous incarnation at Fork, the Marin spot took 2.5 Bauer stars back in '06, but since morphing into a more timely American bistro earlier this year, just about everything has been stripped down and simplified:
While this is not necessarily destination dining, the results are uniformly pleasing and, to judge by the busy house on each of my three visits, well received ... The Dream Farm space is bare ... Seasoning can be equally spare; the salt shakers on the table come in handy.
Sweet deems Dream Farm a perfectly acceptable neighborhood restaurant in the sense that despite some missteps (i.e., starters are a snooze), it's still a "solid, satisfying spot." But not quite satisfying enough to hold onto its rating as the more upscale Fork; in the end, it's a slight downgrade to two stars all around.