The Bauer Express takes a ride to Sebastopol, where Restaurant Eloise is hoping to succeed where fellow NYC import West County Grill went terribly wrong. It's a very encouraging review, with Eloise's positives (the food, the soul) reverberating more loudly than the missteps (atmosphere, seasonality). Upshot: the lasting mental images of "a warm rivulet of melted fat running down [Bauer's] chin and glazing [his] fingers" are enough for 2.5 stars, and perhaps more tellingly, a declaration that the Prune spinoff is, for the most part, "a must-visit place." [Chron]
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