Revisiting the Always Changing Italian - NBC Bay Area

Revisiting the Always Changing Italian

Bay Area foodie reviews Incanto



    Revisiting the Always Changing Italian
    The nervetti with sage, cannellini beans and pangratto.

    Chris Cosentino is among my favorite chefs and I will try pretty much anything that he cooks. And while my favorite appetizer at Incanto, the offal-themed gem of an Italian restaurant in Noe Valley, remains the grilled beef heart and my favorite entree is still the bucatini with cured tuna heart, I was also excited to try what was on his menu when I last visited.

    To start, I had the nervetti with sage, cannellini beans and pangratto.

    What is nervetti, you ask? Simply put, it’s the chopped up tendons and meat from the foot of a calf. The most noticeable thing about it is its gelatinous texture, so aspic-like that the dish had a lip-smacking quality to it with every mouthful. Mixed with the cannellini beans, the nervetti’s texture wasn’t too overpowering, but it was certainly a different texture to get used to.

    For my entree, I had the pappardelle with duck sugo, tomato and cerignola olives.

    Pappardelle is one of my favorite pastas but I don’t see it on menus that often, so I knew I had to try this. Served tossed with a hearty and rustic sauce, it was really fitting given how cold it was outside when I ate at Incanto. The pieces of duck were tender and delicious.

    I ended my meal with Incanto’s apple butter doughnuts.

    These lacked the traditional doughnut texture that I was expecting, but they were still good. Light and fluffy on the outside, filled with apple on the inside, they were a welcome finish to my meal.

    Incanto’s menu is always changing, so I’m due to head back soon and see what they’re offering this season. Chef Consentino always has a few surprises on the menu and this visit was no exception.

    Mariam Hosseini is a Bay Area native who has been writing about food and travel for six years.  She blogs regularly at