He decides that the "arepa is the platypus of handheld foods," favors Pollo to Pica, and gives sage advice for staying clean: "Diners who dispense with the paper wrappers before eating the arepas risk coming out of the experience looking like they've been in the front row of a Gallagher show."
SFBG's Reidinger takes a field trip to Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes Station, which he calls a "village consecrated to food." He finds the decor to be a bit too safe, but likes the kitchen risks such as oyster pizza and the "artisanal intensity" of the desserts. [SFBG]
ELSEWHERE: - East Bay Express critic Matthew Stafford bellies up to the snout to tail goodness at Berkeley's Revival Bar & Kitchen [EBX]; and Marin IJ peeps the scene and tests arterial limits at Scott Howard's Brick & Bottle. [Marin IJ]